Frequently Asked Questions

What are the differences between aluminum, iron, and stainless steel? | What is the care of metal furniture? | What are the wood species suitable for outdoor use? | What is the care of wood outdoor furniture? | What are the various types of stone tables? | What is the care of stone, tile, and mosaic tops?


What are the differences between aluminum, iron, and stainless steel?

Lets start with aluminum. Aluminum has the best weight/strength ratio of the 3 types of metal furniture. For the most part, it is relatively corrosion-resistant. In salt air environments, pitting can occur. Aluminum can be used in different manufacturing methods for furniture. Cast aluminum is made by pouring molten aluminum into molds, allowing pleasing details and forms to be created. Extruded aluminum describes a process where the soft metal is forced thru a cross-sectional form, or die, transferring its shape characteristics to the metal coming out of it. Wrought aluminum is when aluminum bar stock is formed into furniture. Tubular aluminum furniture is when aluminum tubing (which is extruded) is shaped into furniture. Early metal furniture was made from tubular aluminum. Tubular is the most inexpensive of all the methods. On some pieces, there can be a combination of cast and extruded combined. Typically, aluminum furniture is powdercoated or otherwise painted. Powdercoating involves electrostatically charging the pieces to be coated, and spraying them with powdered color pigments. Then the pieces are baked, and the powdered coating melts and flows into the profiles of the metal, giving a very durable, scratch-resistant finish.

Iron is much heavier han aluminum. It varies from the traditional black old-world look to contemporary, sleek pieces with bright colors powdercoated on them. If wind is a significant issue, iron is the best choice because of its weight. Sometimes pieces referred to as iron are actually mild steel. Subtle difference, but there it is. Iron will rust if not sealed. Iron is not a great choice in salt air environments either.

Stainless steel is the most costly of the three, and the most corrosion-resistant. It is the best choice for a salt air environment. Stainless steel comes in different varieties, which describe the mix of the alloy, or recipe, if you will. Cromium and other metals are mixed in to the steel to change the suspectibility to corrosiion, reduce stress cracking, etc. There is a lot of engineering in stainless steel. There are different types of stainless steel, such as type 304, 308, 316 (marine-grade).

In better grades of metal furniture, different pieces are put together by welded joints. Welded furniture is melted together. Inexpensive metal furniture comes flat-packed in a box, and is bolted together. Over time bolts can loosen, and the piece becomes wobbly. The best furniture has welded seams, and the welds are a joy to look at and touch. Inexpensive furniture is 'spot welded', or tacked with just a few welded spots, whereas better furniture is welded completely around the circumference of the joint, and is then ground down, smoothed, and polished. This results in a very strong joint, and something that will not cause an injury from a sharp edge or worse, a collapse.


What is the care of metal furniture?

Most metal furniture is very low maintenance. Just keep it somewhat clean, so dust does not get ground into it. Hose it off once in a while. If it has removable cushions, its a good idea to not leave them exposed during the rainy season. Although fine patio furniture typically has a reticulated foam core (water is not absorbed), and Sunbrella outdoor fabrics, Over a period of a few years you will be able to see a difference in furniture that is left out year round vs furniture that is taken care of. For people who just do not or can not cover or shelter their furniture, the most trouble-free no-maintenance solution would be powdercoated aluminum sling furniture. Always make sure you get sunbrella fabrics or other similar fabrics with a strong fade warranty.


Wicker, woven, loom, rattan, poly-rattan - What's the difference?

There are many different variations of woven furniture. Woven furniture for indoor use is typically all natural products, with wood or bamboo frames. Woven furniture destined for outdoor use normally is woven onto an aluminum or teak frame. The first woven furniture was made by weaving plant material such as palm fronds into something to sit or sleep on. In the casual furniture industry, Woven refers to any material that is woven to create furniture. Rattan is the name for about 600 species of palm tree. Most of the world's rattan comes from Indonesia. It is highly renewable, and easy to grow and harvest. Rattan is well suited for indoor use. Poly-rattan is merely a synthetic material, such as PVC, which is made to look like rattan, but can perform outdoors because it is inorganic.

Wicker traditiionally refers to plant material (such as rattan stems or willow switches, or bamboo) that is woven into furniture. Around the turn of the century Henry Lloyd patented a process where paper-wrapped high tensile wire was used to create furniture. This was known as 'Lloyd Loom', and loom is still available today by manufacturers such as Lloyd/Flanders & others. Resin-wicker refers to synthetic material (usually polyethylene or PVC), which is treated to be UV-resistant. Synthetic wicker's color is typically throughout the material, whereas natural wicker, rattan, and loom are often painted. High quality woven furniture will last an incredibly long time, upwards of 20 years. However, beware of box-store woven furniture at a low price point. It will likely end up in a landfill.

Outdoor resin-wicker is frequently a good choice for demanding coastal environments. Whereas aluminum would be subjected to pitting in salt air, woven furniture looks good for a long time because any surface pitting on the metal frame is hidden by the woven material.


What is the care and upkeep of wicker / woven furniture?

The enemy of woven furniture is mold & mildew, which can cause rot. Mildew needs organic material to grow, which can come from pollen, dust, and the like. A simple hosing off or in case of a lot of dirt, washing with gentle detergent a few times a year is all that is needed to keep the furniture lookiung fresh and new. Natural wicker and loom can be repainted if they are sun-faded. Synthetic products cannot generally be painted, because the paint will not adhere well to the resin material.


What wood species are suitable for outdoor use?

There are many species of high-oil-content trees who's wood is used to build furniture. Popular species include teak, jarrah, eucalyptus, acacia, nyatoh, jotoba, ipe, shorea - there are many! In our opinion, teak has a special place in our hearts. It has been farmed for centuries, takes a beautiful finish, does not rot, wood-boring insects hate it, and hey - they build boats out of it! Teak gets its wonderful characteristics from its high oil content and its embedded silica. Other rot-resistant woods are jarra, jotoba (brazilian cherry), ipe and shorea. Avoid furniture made from aqcacia, nyatoh, or eucalyptus, unless the furniture will not see outdoors. These species are really not good choices for outdoor use. They have much less durability in the elements.

Stewardship - Please make sure that if you buy wood furniture, the company practices responsible forestry management. Selective logging (instead of clear-cutting), and the replanting of more trees than are taken out ensure a sustainable industry. FSC certification is generally good, but is not everywhere, or may be more stringent in some areas than others. There are many sustainability programs in existence, so ask your retailer how the wood furniture you are interested in is certified. If purchasing for outdoor use, avoid the cheap wood species. PLEASE DON'T BUY FURNITURE WHICH WILL END UP IN A LANDFILL WITHIN 5 YEARS. Pay for better furniture that can take the elements and give you a 20-40 year lifespan - which makes it much less expensive in the long run.


What is the care of wood outdoor furniture?

The answer to this question entails that you look within yourself! How obsessive are you? To keep wood furniture looking as beautiful as it did the day you bought it, there is typically some work involved. However, beauty does not mean brawn! Here's why: As most (untreated) wood furniture oxidizes, it changes color. Some woods turn gray, some turn dark. In most cases, this does not affect the durability of the wood. Some people object to this process for aesthetic reasons. So, if you insist that the furniture looks great all the time, plan on a once or twice yearly treatment of some type, and get some covers for the rainy season! If you like furniture like your favorite pair of jeans, faded and with character, you'll love teak or ipe or some of the other species. to prevdent mildew, keep organic material from gaining a foothold by occasionally hosing the furniture off.


What are the various types of stone tables?

Stone tables for the patio typically fall into three types:

  • Solid-slab granite, travertine, or marble
  • Mosaic - different types of stone and/or ceramic tile, terra cotta, or glass set into a mortar bed
  • Volcanic stone slabs, which are glazed and fired like stoneware pottery.

Solid-slab tabletops can be made in many sizes and shapes. It provides a uniform look, which can be mellow so it disappears into the patio, or it can be as stunning as a richly-veined marble slab can be. Mosaic tops provide a stunning look, and can be tailored to suit the color scheme of the venue. Volcanic stone is quarried in great slabs, cut to the appropriate size, and pre-fired to ensure there are no weak spots that might crack. An artist next painstalingly handpaints underglazes and top glaze onto the tabletop until the desired effect is achieved, then the top is fired again. The result is a one-of-a-kind handmade stoneware top!

Mosaic top and slab tops can be solid-core or composite-core. Solid core is exactly that: solid stone. Some manufacturers offer an alternative core which can be made of a synthetic material, such as honeycombed aluminum. This is done to make the stone top lighter and easier to move and deal with. In our experience, solid stone is the better way to go. Combining unlike materials (eg: wood + metal) in outdoor usage with extreme temperature fluctuations can result in failures. This is due to differing rates of expansion/contraction due to changes in temperature. Put simply, wood and metal expand and contract at different rates, unless a flexible bond is between them, cracking in the least flexible (stone) component can result. Stick to solid core tops, or insist on a strong warranty - there are some systems of composite cores that actually do work.


What is the care of stone, tile, and mosaic tops?

Most slab and mosaic tops should be sealed once a year with a good-quality stone sealer/enhancer, available at better tile shops. Italian hand-inlaid travertine tops with terracotta inlays look best with a small amount of wax applied 1-3 times per year, depending on the amount of sun they get. Some tables do better with wax instead of sealer, so ask us when you are selecting.


What is the difference between a 'zero-clearance fireplace' and an 'insert'?

A zero-clearance fireplace is a standalone fireplace which has very low 'clearance to combustables' - this essentially means it can be built into a normal wood stud wall - it does not require masonry construction. A zero-clearance fireplace is basically a well-insulated metal box, typically with a glass front, and an outlet hole on top for connection to an approved venting system. Zero-clearance fireplaces can have different fuel types, such as wood or gas. Typically, a zero clearance fireplace will have a better looking fire than an insert, because it is larger & sometimes deeper. Once a zero-clearance fireplace has been installed, one can add whatever surround you might want, anything from no embelleshment at all to stone or tile, to a goergeous marble raised mantel. Click here for more information on fireplace surrounds.

A fireplace insert is exactly that, a metal box that 'inserts' into an existing fireplace (traditional masonry or zero-clearance metal). In some cases, a zero-clearance fireplace can have an additional modification to enable it to be installed into an existing fireplace, so it performs like an insert.

What different fuel types can be used for a fireplace?

There are many ways to create fire in a fireplace. Villa Terrazza offers fireplace options that burn natural or LP gas, wood, or ethanol. Each have their place. Below is a brief overview of the Pro's and Con's of the prevailing fuel types available today.

Fuel Types
Type Pro's Con's
Wood
  • great sound effects
  • much radiant heat w/large fire
  • Realistic flame (It should be, it's real!)
  • Polluting
  • Inefficient - sends too much heat up chimney, including room heat via 'chimney effect'
  • Messy - scorpions & spiders in woodpile, wood boring insects near structure
  • Can't use on 'No Burn Days'
Gas
  • Good-looking flame
  • Most convenient (remote control or thermostat controlled)
  • Most efficient (especially with direct-vent)
  • LP or Natural Gas
  • Clean burning, very low emissions
  • Sometimes costly
  • Older units not very realistic
  • No 'pop' sound effects
Ethanol
  • 'green' renewable
  • no venting requirement
  • Costly
  • Inconvenient
Pellet
  • Not recommended by Villa Terrazza
  • Costly
  • moving parts in units which can fail
  • no industry standard for pellets
  • pellet shortages

What is Direct-vent? What is 'B-vent'?

Venting used in this context refers to the method for venting the by-products of combustion out of the house / living spaces. Traditionally, gas-fired appliances use 'B-vent', which refers to a simple metal flue going through the roof. Typically, to provide sufficient draft (air flow up the chimney) to exhaust the flue gas, air from the living space is sent up the flue as well. This air taken from the room and sent up the chimney is usually air that was heated up at great expense - by your furnace, etc! Direct-Venting, on the other hand, refers to a closed combustion system whereby there are two flows of air from/to the combusion chamber of the gas appliance (fireplace). One flow brings outside air in to support combustion (fire needs air to burn). The other flow exhausts combustion by-products out of the house. Direct-vent appliances are much more effecient, and therefore 'heater-rated' by EPA. They do not draw your warm room air up the chimney! Villa Terrazza recommends direct vent fireplaces and inserts!

Are gas logsets a good way to warm a room?

Many people have a gas-fired device in their masonry fireplaces used to help light a fire. These are called loglighters, and make lighting a wood fire easier. Since wood fires can be messy and there are many no-burn days, sometimes people opt to modify their fireplaces by removing the loglighter, getting the chimney cleaned, and hooking up a logset to the gas line. Logsets allow more convenience than a wood fire provides. They are available in many sizes, from 18" to 48" and sometimes larger. They tend to use more gas than a heater-rated appliance would use (such as a direct-vent gas insert). The advantages of a logset over an insert? If you decide to have a wood fire, you still can. Sort of. (You still have to remove the logset, and cap off the gas line). The disadvantage of logsets to an insert? Logsets use 2-3 times the gas as an insert does. Logsets take much of the heat from the room and send it up the chimney. If there are glass doors on the fireplace, they must be open when the logset is lit, or the heat may damage the gas valve. A properly-installed logset also includes a damper clamp - a device that blocks the damper in the open position. This is a saftey feature to make sure that no one dies of carbon monoxide poisoning from a unvented gas appliance. A gas insert is effecient, burns clean, does not send room heat up the chimney, and feels like it is throwing much more heat than a logset does, even though it is using less gas!

What types of firepits are available?

The first firepit was probably a 55 gallon drum fitted with a metal top. We've come a long way since then. Firepits are available fueled by wood, gas, or ethanol gel.

Wood-fired Firepits - The most inexpensive firepits are wood-fired. ALWAYS use a spark arrestor when burning wood in a firepit to prevent flying embers from causing a fire. During high fire-risk conditions, do not use a wood-fired firepit. The wood-burning firepits offered by us have some excellent features:

  • Included spark arrestor screen is made of stainless steel. This means it will not rust. Beware of cheap imitations of our firepits - their screens rust out in a year!
  • Cooking grate included - when the fire burns down to embers, throw on a steak!
  • Rain cover is included
  • Optional cordless rotisserie unit available
  • Optional attractive faux stone top allows unit to double as a coffee table

Gas-fired Firepits - LP and natural gas firepits are very popular for a number of reasons. They are convenient. They burn very cleanly and do not throw burning embers into the air, so pose no significant fire hazard. Gas-fired firepits are available with a myriad of top styles - metal, stone, tile, & mosaic. Round, rectangular, and square style tops are available. They are available in coffee-table height, 'chat' height (slightly higher, but lower than dining), dining and bar height. Our favorite is probably 'chat' height, because of its versatility. The flame is not 'in your face', so one can carry on a conversation with the folks across the table. When necessary, chairs can be pulled in for a dining experience as well.

Ethanol-fired Firepits are also available, and offer a clean-burning alternative to a as fireplace. The cost of the ethanol fuel is higher than the cost of gas, however.

Why is Wood-Fired cooking so popular?

From the days of cave dwellers man and womankind have been preparing food over fire. Wood fire imparts a flavor that really can't be faked. Different types of wood impart different flavors. Watch our blog for more discussion threads about the subtleties of cooking with applewood, mesquite. alder, grape. etc. Metal-bodied charcoal-fired BBQs have been in use since there were 55 gallon oil drums to cut in half. We all remember getting the bag of charcoal, dousing it with liquid charcoal starter, and seeing that huge >POOF!< when that lit match was thrown onto it. One of the problems with metal-bodied BBQs is that they lose a fair amount of heat through the walls of the BBQ. They are also not air-tight, which means if cooking for a long time, the charcoal needs to be replenished. Kamado-style cookers, such as the Big Green Egg, solve these problems. Kamados are made of ceramic so they retain much of the heat from the fire. Therefore, the fire needs to burn much less intensely, in fact it is just smoldering. Kamado sookers operate like a wood stove, with the primary air intake underneath being the main way to regulate the fire's intensity (and therefore the cookers temperature). The secondary air control on the top of the cooker also controls the fire's intensity. Another great benefit of a kamado cooker is that it has a fire-resistant gasket seperating the top and bottom halves, rendering the cooker airtight. Why is this good? Because when the cooking is done, one can close the bottom and top air vents, and the fire goes out! Then coals can then be used again and again. That doesn't happen with a metal-bodied BBQ.